A sunny day in a kayak on Milford Sound/Chris Sisarich via Newzealand.com
The vastness of the fjord seemed to stretch on forever, a land untouched by man, full of natural wonder and life. After the afternoon rain, hundreds of waterfalls cascaded from the sheer cliffs. The misty skies above were home to exotic looking birds, the likes of which I'd never seen.
As we paddled through the placid waterscape, a pod of bottlenose dolphins leapt playfully through the air, paralleling our kayaking triad. On the outcrops just above the water's edge, a group of seals reclined. The gentle waves lapped at the rock formations below. This is Milford Sound, or Piopiotahi in the indigenous Maori language, New Zealand's most popular fjord destination and a main attraction of Fiordland National Park.
After high school graduation, my parents and I traveled from Australia to Queenstown, New Zealand, on what was supposed to be a two-week vacation before college. For me it became a 6-month working holiday. As a 19-year-old lad I undertook a job at a remote wilderness lodge on the Milford Track. The alpine wilderness and forests became my backyard, and Milford Sound was the closest thing to 'civilization' from our rugged abode.
I remember vividly the first time I made the two-day hike on the free days I'd accumulated. The sight of Mitre Peak, one of the country's most iconic summits, was simply breathtaking. Through local connections I'd managed to get aboard a last-minute kayaking tour within the short period of time I had, a perk of working in the close-knit tourism industry. As an avid kayaker, and later a private tour guide back in Australia, Milford remains the best paddle I've ever undertaken to this day.
Many visitors take it all in from the shoreline or the top deck of the cruise boats. For the more adventurous traveler though, the only way to experience this pristine wilderness is down at the water's level. And of course, like many outdoor travel destinations, it always pays to have a guide show you around. As the longest-running owner operated sea-kayaking business in New Zealand, Rosco's Milford Kayaks is a great choice to get the most out of your trip to Milford Sound. By leaving the traditional tourist vessels behind you'll be able to get up close and personal, while gliding alongside an abundance of wildlife that frequent the sound, including pods of bottlenose dolphins, New Zealand fur seals, two penguin species, and the occasional Southern Right Whale.
Waterfalls lace the landscape of Fiordland National Park/Jameson Clifton
With a small team of certified local guides, Rosco runs guided trips that cater to a variety of physical abilities. For the novice paddler, the 'Easy Rider' trip combines roughly 2 hours of paddling, stopping at the 160-meter (525 feet) high Lady Bowen Waterfall. The best time of year for this paddle is during New Zealand's spring and summer season (November through mid-March). At $78US per person, it is also the most affordable option; great for people of all ages and abilities.
For those with previous kayaking experience, the 'Afternoon Delight' is the longest and most adventurous option, offering a full-length paddle of Milford Sound, roughly 16 kilometers (10 miles) for a tround trip of 6 hours. They depart daily at 2 p.m., weather permitting. The journey begins with the equipment outfitting and a safety briefing before boarding a 'water taxi,' local dialect for a small-motorized vessel, which takes you to the drop point where you'll begin your own kayaking adventure.
Whichever option, from the easiest to the hardest journey, none will disappoint. As every paddle stroke propels you back towards Milford, a sense of awe at the sheer size and expanse of the fjord washes over you. Even under the highly experienced guidance of your host, there's definitely a sense of vulnerability from being totally immersed and at one with nature.
Of course after you're safely back to land, you'll need a place to stay. While Milford isn't exactly a township, despite being the only settlement within the national park, there is local accommodation at the Milford Lodge, with prices ranging from $26US per night for a dormitory style bunk room, $99 for a basic double room, and up to $270 for a Premium Riverside Chalet. Tent and campervan parking is also available. Despite these options however, most people stay in the adjoining township of Te Anua or Manapouri; each roughly a two-hour drive away.
New Zealand holds a special place in the hearts of those who witness its majestic beauty within the Fiordland National Park. I'd like to climb Mitre Peak on my next trip, as well as embark on a kayaking and trekking voyage to the more remote regions of the park. I'm not sure exactly when, but I know for certain I'll be back. I simply can't wait to paddle the pristine waters of the Southern Island again.
Jameson Clifton, a University of Utah student, is an editorial intern for the Traveler. He previously wrote about ski touring in Yellowstone National Park.
Support Essential Coverage of Essential Places
Comments
Looks like a wonderful trip, and a place that I always thought would be a great place to visit. I suspect, however, that my "bucket" is getting a bit too shallow for this one to be a reality on my list, so I enjoyed your story and photos :-)
Thanks for this article, Jameson. Fjordlands National Park makes my list of the top 5 national parks in the world that I have ever visited. It was raining when we got to Milford Sound. The compensation was the abundance of waterfalls. It's a great park!
Rick
Great article! It sounds like you had an epic New Zealand experience. I especially liked where you pivoted away from the boat cruises and talked more to the adventurous traveler. I just wrote a post about 3 of the best experiences you can have while visiting Milford Sound, and it's very much in the same vain, having had very similar experiences to you. Cheers to the adventurous advocate!