Late afternoon storm clouds and sunlight over the Painted Hills Unit, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

There are trails within each of the three units comprising John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, none of them very long. In truth, you can do every single trail within a unit (not each unit, but a unit) in an entire day. That’s essentially what I did at the Painted Hills Unit. I’d arrived there in the afternoon one day, then returned to spend a morning there the next day.

A map of the Painted Hills Unit trails, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / NPS

The lengthiest hike is the Carroll Rim Trail at 1.6 miles (2.6 km) roundtrip. The rest of the trails (Painted Hills Overlook, Painted Cove, Leaf Hill, Red Scar Knoll) range in distance from .25-mile (.4 km) to .5-mile (.8 km) roundtrip. Hiked separately or all together, each trail is a nice leg stretcher that won’t leave you breathing heavily.

Carroll Rim Trail (1.6 miles roundtrip)

The Carroll Rim Trailhead, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

At the turnoff to the Painted Hills Overlook is a small parking area right across the gravel road from the Carroll Rim Trailhead. Cross back over the road and begin your ascent to the summit view area. Steepest at the onset, the hike gentles out prior to reaching the top. Once you’re at the summit, it’s a fairly level walk to the end of the trail for some very cool 180-degree views.

A southeasterly view from the Carroll Rim Trail summit, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

A westerly view from the Carroll Rim Trail summit, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

A northwesterly view from the Carroll Rim Trail summit, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

Even though the Painted Hills Unit is the most popular of the three units, you may still find yourself all alone as you hike this trail. Here’s a piece of advice: while you can hike this trail any time of day during any season, for spectacular light and landscape color, launch your hike in the mid-to-late afternoon. I hiked during the morning hours and while the views were outstanding, I realized (after the fact) the afternoon sunlight would transform those layered dark maroon and olive green-yellow hills into a blaze of brilliant red and yellow. Come to think of it, I’ll bet the night sky over those hills from the top of this trail is breathtaking, too.

Painted Hills Overlook Trail (.5 mile roundtrip)

Late afternoon sunlight hit the hills during my first-ever visit to this unit. The colors were stunning. It was all I could do not to gun the engine on that gravel road to get to the Painted Hills Overlook parking lot as quickly as possible. Camera in hand, I wandered slowly from the overlook to trail’s end. Along the way is a bench facing those colorful hills and I availed myself of a few moments’ reflection before continuing my walk. A nice, leisurely ramble on an old road, you won’t be huffing and puffing along the way. The trail extends a little bit beyond the bench, but hiking up the hills is prohibited.

Carroll Rim Trail parking, Painted Hills Overlook parking, and Painted Hills Overlook trail as seen from the Carroll Rim Trail summit, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

Painted Hills Overlook informational signs and view, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

A seat with a view along the Painted Hills Overlook Trail, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

Painted Cove Trail (.25-mile roundtrip)

Just a hop-and-a-skip is this little trail, but it will take you past “an amazing color palette of vibrant rocks,” according to the NPS. Seriously, the colors are so vivid your viewers will think you over-saturated your photos. Turn your head (and camera) away from those bright colors now and then to capture the vast panorama around you.

A boardwalk leading line along the Painted Cove Trail, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

The view along the Painted Cove Trail, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

Painted Hills landscape seen from the Painted Cove Trail, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

Although this trail is very short, there are a couple of steep spots going up and then back down. Nothing lengthy, though. A hiking pole might be helpful, or a tripod doubling as a hiking pole (grin).

Leaf Hill Trail (.25-mile roundtrip)

The trail to Leaf Hill, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

There's fossils in that thar Leaf Hill, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

There are fossils in that thar hill! Here’s another short trail for a nice amble over level ground. You’ll walk past “extensively excavated” Leaf Hill, filled with (you guessed it) leaf fossils. And it’s those fossils that make this otherwise unimposing hill so special. If your eyes are sharp enough, you might even spy a small rock with a leaf fossil in it. If you do, leave it alone because no collecting is permitted.

Red Scar Knoll Trail aka Red Hill Trail (.25-mile roundtrip)

With a name like that, you know this small hill will be a bright red … and bright yellow. The trail leads up to and around the knoll for great views of the monument’s landscape. Stay on trail and don’t attempt to climb this small hill.

The trailhead to Red Scar Knoll takes you over some fragile landscape, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

Approaching Red Scar Knoll, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson

Speaking of the colorful landscape in this unit, summer and autumn are great times to view the red and yellow stratigraphy. Winter is gorgeous, too, but snow can cover the “paint” in those painted hills.

When visiting the Painted Hills Unit, you’ll be driving gravel roads. You should also be aware of wandering cattle in the middle of the road – maybe not within the unit itself, but definitely along the way to the unit. Play it safe and drive the posted speed limit. Once you are on the trail, stick to it. It’s tempting to want a longer hike by taking off to explore colorful parts yonder, but your footsteps destroy fragile biota and leave an unsightly mess.

Be aware there are no restrooms except for the pit toilets at the picnic area at the Painted Hills Unit information kiosk near the unit’s entrance. There is also no water except for the water fountains at the picnic area. Oh, and it’s exposed out there, so take advantage of the restroom, carry plenty of water with you, and wear a hat or sunscreen (or both).

Taken separately, none of these trails are very challenging. I think of them more as walking, rather than hiking trails. What you really gain with each trail is a different perspective of the Painted Hills beauty within this unit.

Painted Hills landscape viewed from the summit of Carroll Rim Trail, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument / Rebecca Latson