An afternoon view of Spirit Island, Maligne Lake, Jasper National Park / Rebecca Latson
October 9 is Indigenous Peoples’ Day. I tend to miss all those national days (National Photography Day, National Go Birding Day), but while posting something to Facebook – er – Meta - on behalf of the Traveler, I noticed the social media site encouraging people to schedule a post for Indigenous Peoples’ Day. That brought to mind my recent road trip to four national parks in the Canadian Rockies. One of the highlights of my trip was a two-hour cruise on Maligne (Muh-LEEN) Lake in Jasper National Park.
What does a cruise have to do with Indigenous Peoples’ Day?
The Stoney Nakoda First Nation believes everything has a living spirit: humans, wildlife, rocks, water, mountains, insects, everything. Maligne Lake is a very special living entity to them, where the surrounding mountains are physical representations of their ancestors and tiny Spirit Island provides the beating heart for the living lake as well as a venue for Stony Nakoda ceremonies and traditions.
While planning my road trip, I happened upon several reviews of the Maligne Lake Cruise.
Cruising Maligne Lake, Jasper National Park / Rebecca Latson
While I generally eschew organized tours (ok, except for organized photo tours), every review I read highly recommended reserving a spot on one of the cruises and, for photographers in particular, a spot on the “premium” cruise which occurred only once a day, from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. All the cruises covered the same area of water, but the special prize for the premium cruise was a 30-minute stop to view and photograph Spirit Island.
This “heart” of Maligne Lake is a sacred spot to the Stoney Nakoda. You cannot set foot on this patch of land connected by an isthmus to the mainland. Traditional ceremonies are held and artifacts, modern and ancient, call Spirit Island their home.
Now, while you cannot stand upon this tiny “island,” you can photograph it. So, I joined Captain Greg, our tour guide Mel, and 29 other people on the Maligne Lake Premium Cruise. Quite a few other photographers, tripods in tow, booked this time slot as well. Spirit Island is considered one of the most-photographed places in Canada. Late afternoon light makes it especially photogenic and there are several photo op spots along a series of wood and stone steps, including a platform overlooking the landscape.
Stair steps to a view, Maligne Lake, Jasper National Park / Rebecca Latson
Maligne Lake is the longest lake in the Canadian Rockies, stretching almost 14 miles (22 km) with depths between 115 feet (35 m) and 318 feet (97 m). The lake is considered extremely significant to the Stoney Nakoda because it’s surrounded by an almost virtually unbroken chain of mountains. There are no roads, trails, houses, condos, or any other type of development beyond the northwestern portion of the lake. It’s all thick green swaths of undeveloped lodgepole pine blanketing the jagged mountains’ lower elevations, and Englemann spruce lining the shores. To get there from here, you need watercraft. It takes about eight hours to paddle to and from Spirit Island one way. FYI, “Maligne Lake is open to paddlers and electric motors only; gas motors are prohibited,” according to Parks Canada. If you don’t feel like expending the energy paddling, then a cruise is your best bet.
Paddlers on Maligne Lake, Jasper National Park / Rebecca Latson
If you are interested in taking a cruise around the lake, you can book a ticket online or purchase a ticket once you arrive. I recommend going the online route for a better chance at snagging a spot for the time you wish. I also recommend getting there much earlier than your planned cruise time as the parking lot fills quickly.
A full parking lot at Maligne Lake, Jasper National Park / Rebecca Latson
You can spend that extra time hiking nearby trails, enjoying refreshments and food, or just watching the play of light upon the stunning lake scenery.
Enjoying the view at Maligne Lake, Jasper National Park / Rebecca Latson
If you do want to expend a little energy paddling the lake, the historic Maligne Lake Boat House offers canoe and kayak rentals.
Maligne Lake Boat House, Jasper National Park / Rebecca Latson
Mary Schäffer Warren was the first non-native to set eyes upon “Chaba Imne” (Beaver Lake) the Indigenous name for Maligne Lake. A wealthy lady, Mary was a naturalist, photographer, writer, and surveyor tasked by the Geological Survey of Canada to survey the lake in 1911. She is quoted as saying “If Lake Louise is a pearl, Maligne is the entire pearl necklace.”
Having visited both Lake Louise and now Maligne Lake myself, I agree with Mary. And having looked out upon Spirit Island, nestled within this protective circle of mountains, I felt a certain measure of the reverence bestowed to the landscape by a people who inhabited this region long before Europeans ever set eyes upon this jewel of a lake.
" ... The entire pearl necklace," Maligne Lake, Jasper National Park / Rebecca Latson
