Along the windswept northwestern coast of Newfoundland where four ancient cultures once lived off the sea’s bounty, a lone caribou grazed, indifferent to my family’s delight and seemingly safe in the knowledge that it can no longer be hunted in this protected landscape. We held up a card from Port au Choix National Historic Site that warned us to stay at least three bus lengths away from this gorgeous species at risk. There was a thumb-size rectangle cut out of the cardboard.