“A thousand Yellowstone wonders are calling, ‘Look up and down and round about you!’” In an 1885 essay, John Muir waxed rhapsodic about the nation’s first national park, then just 13 years old. Yellowstone’s wonders still were little known except to Native Americans who had been on the land for millennia; East coasters assumed it was a “park” akin to New York City’s Central Park. At its 150th birthday, Yellowstone is an eternity away from that wrongheaded view, and enmeshed in raft of modern-day complexities never envisioned its youth.