All that cliff rock at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park in Colorado is a magnet to climbers. The Painted Wall is the tallest vertical wall in Colorado, with a height of 2,250 feet (686 m). Most of the climbing activity takes place around North and South Chasm Walls, where the canyon is 1,820 feet (555 m) deep. Unfortunately, detailed information about climbing in this national park is difficult to obtain or non-existent.

Rock climbing at Black Canyon is not recommended for beginners, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park / NPS - Lisa Lynch

Of the 145 climbing routes that are found in Black Canyon:

• 8 are rated at 5.8; only 4 of these have good information available and see regular ascents
• 21 are rated 5.9, 5 of which are aid routes, and only 6 of which see any significant climbing activity
• The other 117 climbs have ratings between 5.10 and 5.13 and many require aid.

Note: while climbing ratings tend to be subjective and based upon consensus after repeated use of a particular route, most climbers in the United States use the Yosemite Decimal System to grade a climbing route. The “5” refers to the class of hike and means the route requires rope and other gear. The decimal numbers are subdivisions - the higher the number after that decimal, the more demanding the climb.

Peak climbing season at the Black Canyon begins in mid-April and runs through the early part of June, and from mid-September through early November. Certain routes are closed annually, from March 15 – July 15 for the protection of nesting raptors.

Environmental hazards found at the park during these time periods include frequent afternoon thunder showers, fully leafed-out poison ivy, and approach gullies inhabited by ticks.

Black Canyon is not a place recommended for beginners. If you get hurt, rescues are involved and technical, and help is a long way away. The National Park Service does not guarantee rescue and recommends the climber be prepared for self-rescue.

To climb in this national park, you’ll need a wilderness permit and should understand wilderness regulations. In addition to a permit, the North Rim Ranger Station has a whiteboard that is used as an informal way of letting other climbers know who is on what route. It prevents multiple parties from piling up on routes and is a quick way to judge climber activity in the canyon.

Map of climbing areas, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park / NPS graphic

According to park staff:

Climbing Safely

All of the climbs within Black Canyon are multi-pitch, traditional routes located in remote areas within the canyon. Climbing routes in the park are very deceiving. There can be clean cracks and excellent lines, followed by choss [rock not suitable for climbing] and places where it is easy to get off route. Loose rock is extreme. Be sure of your holds before you commit. Climbing under other parties brings the danger of being in the firing line of falling rock and gear. Always wear a helmet.

Minimize Risk

• Carrying enough gear to stay out overnight if needed
• Carrying the necessary equipment to endure an unexpected bivy
• Climbing within your ability level, especially if you are new to climbing in the Black Canyon
• Be willing to back off or bail if necessary.
• Know your own abilities and that of your partners.

Climbers must practice Leave No Trace climbing with these climbing-specific regulations:

• Use “clean climbing” techniques and gear that can be removed (e.g., slings, cams, nuts, chocks, and stoppers).
• Do not mark approach trails with cairns or anything else.
• If fixed equipment is unsafe, replacement (anchor for anchor) is allowed without further authorization. Bolts, hangers and chains must be painted the color of the rock surface. If replacing worn webbing, use a natural color.
• Placing of new permanent fixed equipment requires preapproval.
• The physical altering of rock faces by chiseling, glue reinforcement of existing holds, gluing of new holds, and the intentional removal of lichen or plants from rock are prohibited.
• A fixed rope may be left in place for no more than 14 days, while the climbing party is in the park.
• Climbing gear may be cached for less than 24 hours (do not leave food!).
• Use a personal human waste pack out system, such as Rest Stop.
• BASE jumping is prohibited.
• Highlines / slacklines: shall not be used in designated campgrounds; shall not be attached to vegetation or park property; shall not be left unattended; and shall be entirely removable. Highlines / slacklines that span any portion of the canyon or would reasonably be expected to affect the normal operations of the park require a special use permit.

If you are thinking about a new route development with fixed anchors, placing new permanent fixed equipment or replacing fixed anchors, you’ll need to review the authorization process in Chapter 4 of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park/Curecanti National Recreation Area Wilderness and Backcountry Management Plan. You will also need to mail the park with the following information:

• Applicant name
• Address
• Contact phone number
• Location of the proposed new fixed equipment
• Brief description of why the applicant feels fixed equipment is warranted at the proposed site.

Mailing address:
Visitor and Resource Protection Office
Attn: Climbing Staff
102 Elk Creek
Gunnison, CO 81230